DIY Concrete Staining
Would you like to get a look that resembles acid wash concrete but at a low cost? If the answer is yes, then this article is meant for you. The cost of this process is less than 50 percent that of acid staining.
The first step is to gather all your supplies. These products are readily available at local home improvement stores such as Ace Hardware, Lowes, and Depots among others. You will require solid concrete stain and its good to choose two colors that complement one another like dark brown and tan. The concrete sealer comes in various sheens and you have to decide whether you want your floor to have a flat look or the one that is slightly shiny. You need to get an amount that is sufficient to seal your floor six to eight times. You also have to get a cheap gallon sprayer that has an adjustable nozzle. A long-handled roller that has a paint tray and semi-smooth nap. You will also need painters and plastic tape for the protection of other surfaces. Thereafter, get yourself a test space or large piece of cardboard that you will not mind messing up.
The second step is to get all the furniture from your room and prepare your surface and the surroundings well. Cover 4 to 6 feet up the wall so that you can avoid touching up paint and over-spray. Vacuum or sweep quite well because what is on the floor will remain there forever once you begin the process of applying the stained concrete.
At this point, you are now ready to embark on the process. Mix the concrete stain because it separates like any other paint and needs mixing. Pour the mixed stain in the sprayer carefully but off the surface. Replace the cap and if there is need the pump sprayer as you prepare for the spraying process. Use a cardboard to test your pattern or any other place you don’t mind messing like the garage floor.
The sprayer should be kept one foot away from the surface lest you get stain puddles as you look for the splatters. Once you are satisfied with the desired look, begin working on the prepped floor. Remember you are not trying to cover the floor completely but attempting to get a natural stone look. Aim several feet up while working on the edges to get to the edge but not the puddle and still achieve the desired platter look. Work yourself out of the door and not in a corner lest you want to stand for about five hours as you wait for the stained concrete to dry. Pour the left-over stains back into the original container and clean the sprayer to get it ready for the next color. The entire process will not consume a lot of time as long as you know what you are after.
Wait for the time that is recommended before you apply the second coat. After the first coat has dried up, repeat the whole process from the first coat while filling in the areas that have less splatter in and cover those areas that have too much of the previous color. You also need to give the second coat enough time to dry. In case you are happy with how your pattern has turned out to be, proceed and seal the floor. In case you aren’t happy with the stained pattern, keep on layering the various colors until you get happy with the pattern. The filler won’t change the appearance unless you get a semi-shiny one. It will just seal it so that it does not scratch. You can use a hand sprayer on the last coat so as to get a fine mist and small area to take care of because the bleach sprayer covers a wider area.
Once you get ready, pour the sealer in your roller tray and get a sizable amount of the roller just like the case of paint and then begin to roll the floor. Don’t forget to roll yourself towards the door and not confining yourself in a corner because you will not be able to get out. Give the sealant the required time to dry and proceed to the remaining coats. You will be able to achieve a stained coat within little time and at a very cost-effective price.